CRIMPING

Setting consists of fixing diamonds and precious stones on a piece of jewelry. There are different types of settings for working with precious stones. A profession in its own right, this work is carried out by a setter who has several techniques for setting the gems. Setting is a real skill, the main techniques of which are listed below.

THE Claw SET

This type of setting is the most common in jewelry. It consists of holding the precious stone with thin claws made of gold or another material. It is used in particular for emeralds, sapphires, diamonds and even rubies. It has 2 to 8 claws on average.

THE WEIGHT SETTING

This technique allows the stone to be embedded in the very volume of the ring. This not only allows you to create jewelry with contemporary shapes but also protects the stone. The mass setting is particularly used to work on men's signet rings.

THE GRAIN SET

Also called "paving", grain setting applies to small and identical stones. This technique consists of fixing the stone by detaching chips from the setting using a cutting tool (a chisel) before folding them over the edges of the stone. The stone is thus firmly held, surrounded by small grains which block it.

THE CLOSED SET

This technique consists of surrounding the stone with a sheet of metal. The jeweler folds the metal all around the stone using a hammer then releases a small border called the “net”. When the metal does not surround the entire stone, we then speak of a half- or semi-closed setting.

THE RAIL SET

Particularly delicate to make, rail settings are perfect for a diamond setting. This time, it involves embedding one or more rows of stones in a metal rail, eliminating any space between them. For this type of setting, it is sometimes necessary to recut the brilliants. Other types of settings exist: invisible settings, with flanges, with studs... beyond the appearance obtained, calling on an experienced jeweler and setter is crucial. The aesthetics and lifespan of the jewelry depend on it.

THE BARRETTE SET

It is a technique which allows several stones to be set next to each other between 2 metal bars. The only drawback is that this type of setting reduces the sizing options, and in particular the shrinkage, because by reducing the rounding of the ring, the bars are necessarily loosened and the stones risk falling or no longer being well anchored. .

THE TENSION SET

The tension setting holds the gemstone by pressing it using two metal bands. This setting gives the impression of a stone floating between its layers and offers good visibility of the gem.