GLOSSARY OF JEWELLERY

Whether you are a jewelry lover or looking for a unique piece, knowing the jeweler's vocabulary helps you better understand this world. To guide you, here is an A to Z glossary of essential jewelry terms.

 

A :  

Alloy: a mixture of several metals to improve the properties of a piece of jewelry (e.g., 18-karat gold composed of pure gold and other metals). 

Sterling Silver 925: an alloy containing 92.5% pure silver, often used in jewelry. 

Art Deco: a jewelry style from the 1920s-1930s, characterized by geometric shapes and a streamlined design. 

 

B :   

Bail: a loop or clasp used to hang a pendant from a chain. 

Ring sizer: a tool used to measure finger size to choose a perfectly fitting ring. It can be a set of graduated rings or a measuring tape. 

 

C :

Cabochon: a polished, unfaceted stone, often used for opals, turquoises, and carnelian. 

Carat (ct) : a unit of measurement for the weight of precious stones (1 carat = 0.2 gram). 

4 Cs: Criteria for evaluating a diamond: carat (weight), color, clarity, cut. 

Hoop earrings: ring-shaped earrings, thin or thick. 

 

D :

Lab-grown diamond: a man-made diamond with the same composition, brilliance, and strength as a natural diamond, but without mining extraction.

Rose-cut diamond: The rose-cut diamond, hand-cut and relatively flat, stands out for its soft, vintage sparkle. Appreciated for its antique charm, it primarily adorns period jewelry, especially Art Deco.

Old-cut diamond: Old-cut diamonds are stones hand-cut before modern techniques. Their sparkle is softer and warmer, with wider facets and a unique appearance, typical of antique jewelry.

 

E :

Emerald: a green precious stone belonging to the beryl family. 

Enamel: a technique of applying colored glass to jewelry for a decorative effect. 

Halo setting: a ring design where a central stone is surrounded by smaller stones to enhance its brilliance. 

 

F :

Facet: a flat surface cut on a precious stone to maximize its brilliance. 

Filigree: a jewelry technique in which thin metal threads are intertwined to create a delicate pattern. 

 

G :

Engraving : a technique used to inscribe patterns, initials, or messages on jewelry. 

Garnet: a fine stone with red to green tones, often used in jewelry. 

Gemstone: a term that includes precious, fine, and ornamental stones. 

Prong: metal claws folded over the precious stone by the setter, allowing it to be securely fixed onto the jewelry. 

 

I :

Inclusion: a natural imperfection present in a precious stone. 

 

J :

Jewellery: the art of creating jewelry set with precious stones. 

 

L :

Lapidary: an artisan specializing in cutting and polishing precious stones. 

 

M :

Resizing : Resizing allows adjusting the size of a ring, whether to enlarge or reduce it. Performed by jewelers on 18-karat gold, this operation involves re-soldering the band while preserving its original appearance.

Daisy: A symbol of femininity, grace, and elegance, this royal ring, popularized by Princess Diana, adopts a floral shape. Crafted in yellow, gray, or rose gold, it showcases a precious or fine stone, surrounded by diamond petals.

Mounting: the metal structure that supports a stone/piece on an item of jewelry. 

Marquise: The term marquise refers to an elongated, oval stone cut with pointed ends. This style, inspired by the Marquise de Pompadour, is often used for refined rings and jewelry.

N : 

Navette: an elongated, pointed stone cut at both ends, resembling a small boat. 

Mother-of-pearl: a natural material produced by certain mollusks, used for jewelry and watch dials. 

 

O :

Onyx: a highly prized black fine stone in jewelry for its elegance. 

Opal: a precious stone with changing reflections, ranging from milky white to deep blue. 

18-karat gold: an alloy containing 75% pure gold, used in high jewelry and Fremont jewelry.   

14-karat gold: 14-karat gold contains 58.5% pure gold, alloyed with other metals for added strength. It offers a slightly paler hue than 18-karat gold.

9-karat gold: 9-karat gold contains 37.5% pure gold. Less noble and more prone to oxidation, it is less durable than 18-karat gold. Not recommended for precious jewelry.

 

P :

Pavé setting: a technique where several small stones are set together for a shimmering effect. 

Cultured pearl: a pearl produced by a mollusk with human intervention. 

Platinum: a precious metal used in jewelry, valued for its strength and natural luster. 

Pear cut: a drop-shaped stone cut, elegant and refined. 

Hallmark: The hallmark is an engraving applied by the jeweler, indicating the gold, silver, or platinum content of a piece of jewelry. 

Maker's mark / Manufacturer's mark : a hallmark bearing the signature of the jeweler who made the piece of jewelry.

Guarantee hallmark: a hallmark that guarantees the metal content used (18K, 14k, 925, etc.).

 

R : 

Ruby: a red precious stone belonging to the corundum family. 

Rhodium plating: Rhodium plating is a layer of rhodium applied to white gold jewelry to give it a brilliant shine and protect it against oxidation and scratches.

 

S :

Bezel setting: a stone completely surrounded by metal for maximum protection.

Prong setting: a classic setting where metal prongs hold the precious stone. 

Sapphire: a precious stone often blue, but available in several colors. 

Solitaire: a ring adorned with a single diamond or precious stone in the center. 

T : 

Brilliant cut: a round diamond cut with 57 facets for optimal sparkle. 

Tourmaline: a fine stone available in a wide range of colors, from pink to intense green. 

Trilogy : a ring with three stones symbolizing the past, present, and future. 

 

V :

Vermeil: sterling silver coated with a thick layer of gold. 

Vintage: antique jewelry or jewelry inspired by retro styles (Art Deco, Victorian, etc.). 

 

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